I wish. Lol
I normally use the fretboard and then fit it tight in the channel for better coupling in case I don't get the bottom square to the side.
Super glue on acoustic bridge to even string volume?
- Thread starter GuitLoop
- Start date
I normally use the fretboard and then fit it tight in the channel for better coupling in case I don't get the bottom square to the side.
Why half-ass a Martin? I assume it's a good sounding guitar.....
Using a good saddle, take your time and sand the bottom by hand, lay the sand paper on a flat surface and slide bottom of the saddle across it. Use the one you messed up as a guide and don't sand off as much. You may need to test it by putting it on and stringing up the guitar multiple times. That's what it takes.
Those 20-30 minutes done right and you may not ever have to do it again.
compensated bone saddle for less than $20
Using a good saddle, take your time and sand the bottom by hand, lay the sand paper on a flat surface and slide bottom of the saddle across it. Use the one you messed up as a guide and don't sand off as much. You may need to test it by putting it on and stringing up the guitar multiple times. That's what it takes.
Those 20-30 minutes done right and you may not ever have to do it again.
compensated bone saddle for less than $20
Nice! Did you make that? I was going to suggest a slight variation: mount the saddle in a vise, being careful to line it up so that the top of the vise jaws represents the point you want to level to. That way, you'll end up with the bottom of the nut flat and square.
I wish I had been smart enough to think of it. I think I first saw one at Stew-Mac but I wasn't going to pay the $0985472897598287549 they wanted for theirs. then I found this one on eBay sold by a guy in Canada that makes very practical lutherie tools for great prices. I think I only paid $50-$55 US for it. I also bought my fret wire roller from him too along with a couple other tools over a couple short years.
Here is one like mine now for about the same price IIRC (it's been several years now).
Guitar Nut and Bridge Saddle Sander Luthier Sanding Tool Adjustable Height USA | eBay
17Pcs Sitka Spruce Brace Wood Kit Acoustic Guitar Luthier DIY Parts Smooth US. Bass/Guitar Fret Beveling File Fret End Dressing Tool with File Luthier Tool. MOSKY Overdrive Boost Guitar Effect Pedal Treble Output Gain Knob Normal/Soft US.
www.ebay.com
they can also be found from other distributers from half way around the world for less too but I like to get my tools quicker.
While replacing the saddle would be best, I have used super glue to finish pens that i turn, 6 coats of superglue then i wet sand it to give it a high gloss. It is pretty resistant, I would try it if getting a saddle is a bit of a bother
The Ballzz
Senior Stratmaster
As alluded to/mentioned by the OP, @wooders & @Believer7713 , the problem with hand sanding, even on the flattest surface you can find is that the ends will always end up sanded just a little bit more. UNLESS some sort of squaring guide/block is used! Just the nature of the geometry and physics involved.
Simply Squarin'
Gene
Simply Squarin'
Gene
The Ballzz
Senior Stratmaster
I wish I had been smart enough to think of it. I think I first saw one at Stew-Mac but I wasn't going to pay the $0985472897598287549 they wanted for theirs. then I found this one on eBay sold by a guy in Canada that makes very practical lutherie tools for great prices. I think I only paid $50-$55 US for it. I also bought my fret wire roller from him too along with a couple other tools over a couple short years.
Here is one like mine now for about the same price IIRC (it's been several years now).
Guitar Nut and Bridge Saddle Sander Luthier Sanding Tool Adjustable Height USA | eBay
17Pcs Sitka Spruce Brace Wood Kit Acoustic Guitar Luthier DIY Parts Smooth US. Bass/Guitar Fret Beveling File Fret End Dressing Tool with File Luthier Tool. MOSKY Overdrive Boost Guitar Effect Pedal Treble Output Gain Knob Normal/Soft US.www.ebay.com
they can also be found from other distributers from half way around the world for less too but I like to get my tools quicker.
VERY cool tool that I can see multiple uses for! I'm an incurable, card carrying "Tool Junkie" and simply must have one! Where are those other "cheaper" sources out of "chinesiawanoreanam" and/or what are the key words for finding it?
Thanx 4 Sharin' That!
Gene
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StratoMutt
Dr. Stratster
I cheaped out and ordered this one: Chord pillow. Funny how Chinese translates.
Someone thinks it is funny...
Someone thinks it is funny...
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The Ballzz
Senior Stratmaster
Well,
A saddle and a pillow are loosely similar in their function, like on a horse, so……? Free shipping too! Nice find and thanx 4 Sharon! She was a GOOD girl, in all the WORST ways!
Still Kinda Funny Though,
Gene
A saddle and a pillow are loosely similar in their function, like on a horse, so……? Free shipping too! Nice find and thanx 4 Sharon! She was a GOOD girl, in all the WORST ways!
Still Kinda Funny Though,
Gene
Exactly what happened to me. I sanded on a flat metal surface but since i sanded by hand the outside edges ended up with a slight extra amount removed i guess as the saddle wiggled a bit in my fingers as i held it and attempted to sand as flatly as possible.
StratoMutt
Dr. Stratster
It is not easy getting accurate right angle and totally flat results when sanding a saddle or nut bottom. As careful as I have been they are never perfect. Hoping the pillow grinder fixes that.
That thing makes pianos?
Are you talking about the actual bridge or the bone saddle? If it is the saddle then the method you are suggesting is crazy. If you are getting uneven response from an under the saddle transducer then you probably sanded it unevenly or sanded the bottom of the saddle out of square.
Yes i know I'm crazy
.Anyhow i finally got around to giving the superglue fix a go and it worked like a charm. A couple of drops of super glue on the underside of the bone saddle under the strings with low volume...the high and low E strings. I was careful not to get the glue on the sides of the saddle (only the bottom) and not to put it on too thick. Then i waited 24 hours for the super glue to fully cure so i didn't end up super gluing my saddle into the bridge.
In my first attempt the fix worked too good and the high and low E strings were too loud compared to the other strings (too much super glue). So i pulled the saddle back out and sanded gently and evenly on a flat surface. Then I reinserted the saddle and it sounded great. I know my fix is somewhat unconventional but it worked for me...your mileage may vary.
StratoMutt
Dr. Stratster
Update on this if anyone is interested...
I received the pillow grinder in two thin plastic bags. In the short trip from North New Jersey to me it got beat up pretty good. The vendor blamed the rough handling on behalf of the:
"We are very sorry, maybe the logistics and transportation are too violent, which caused it to break, because we will check it before shipment. I hope that will not bring you too much trouble, we want to know if it can still be used?"
Nope. I paid for condition "new". Grease slung out of the bearings. Scratches and gouges on three sides. After some back and forth in something resembling English from them I was sent a return USPS label.
Just as well as it was one of my impulse buys I did not need anytime soon. I have tool GAS rather than gear GAS.
Avoid eBay vendor sunnyshop6.
That looks pretty much identical to the one I got from Amazon, including the packaging, but mine arrived in pretty good shape.
Just one small nick in one of the outer edges, no big deal.
StratoMutt
Dr. Stratster
Amazon is the last vendor I buy from. Always.
I'm guessing the various eBay "shops" may be all run by the same Chinese.
I may to try to buy another pillow grinder if / when the actual need arises.
It was the sanding of the bottom of the saddle so it is perfectly flat and square is what fixed the transducer response, not the super glue. So, what took you over 24 hrs of time could have been accomplished in less than 2 minutes.Yes i know I'm crazy
Anyhow i finally got around to giving the superglue fix a go and it worked like a charm. A couple of drops of super glue on the underside of the bone saddle under the strings with low volume...the high and low E strings. I was careful not to get the glue on the sides of the saddle (only the bottom) and not to put it on too thick. Then i waited 24 hours for the super glue to fully cure so i didn't end up super gluing my saddle into the bridge.
In my first attempt the fix worked too good and the high and low E strings were too loud compared to the other strings (too much super glue). So i pulled the saddle back out and sanded gently and evenly on a flat surface. Then I reinserted the saddle and it sounded great. I know my fix is somewhat unconventional but it worked for me...your mileage may vary.
Just trying to share that the approach worked for me and my circumstances. In my case i couldn't sand the saddle any more or my action would have been too low and since i was sanding by hand, sanding a new saddle down to the height i wanted would have taken me a lot of time and may have ended up with the same issue as my first attempt. The active work time with my approach was only a couple of minutes. And the glue curing time wasn't an issue for me since i didn't have any pressing needs for the guitar.
I'm not saying my approach is the only approach or the best approach. Just sharing my experience that super glue helped me fix my saddle's uneven string volume. Since super glue is commonly used in fixing a nut i thought I'd give it a try on my saddle. But...I didn't mix in baking soda like I've seen done for a nut which can quicken the curing time based on what i read.
