A neck reset, commonly done on acoustic guitars after many years.How do you reduce the break angle on a glued in neck?
I’m talking about the break angle behind the bridge. on any bolt on neck you can shim it to achieve the necessary break angle.How do you reduce the break angle on a glued in neck?
Not all of them. The Leo Quan BasAss bridge is certainly one solution to the one piece wrap around Gibson bridge. I like the Wilkinson version better though.
Yeah, nothing is perfect.Not all of them. The Leo Quan BasAss bridge is certainly one solution to the one piece wrap around Gibson bridge. I like the Wilkinson version better though.
The break angle in my photos is perfect. The collapsing bridge is another problem which can be fixed in a vise.Change the height of the tailstop, or overwrap the strings.
That changes the break angle over the saddle without changing the saddle height.
The problem with overwrapping is it may be too much and result in too little break angle (which is what I see on Scott's example photos).
OTOH, if top-wrapping would result in too little angle, then a proper adjustment can be made by raising the tailstop.
And no, it's not going to impact "the tonez"
As far as the excessive break angle, such as on my Bonamassa and SG, there are two potential issues.
One, you can see on my SG, the string tension is pulling forward on the bridge.
It's not a big deal on the modern bridge, but on a traditional ABR1 bridge, it is putting a lot of tension on the studs and *will* result in them bending forward.
The other issue is the downward pressure of the strings off the back of the bridge will ultimately lead to it collapsing... flattening the radius:
View attachment 582289
View attachment 582291
View attachment 582290
How does shimming the neck change the break angle, when the break angle is from the top of the saddle to the entry point of the tremolo block?I’m talking about the break angle behind the bridge. on any bolt on neck you can shim it to achieve the necessary break angle.
On a Strat or other fender this is done with shims in the neck pocket.
On the Gibsons we are talking about the bridge break angle is adjusted at the stop tailpiece.
It is. Either way, the change wasn't dramatic.That’s bad science.
Also, the one piece bridge isn’t what we are actually discussing. Even though it looks similar it’s not.Yeah, nothing is perfect.
How do you reduce the break angle on a glued in neck?
I realize that, but any SG could be converted to a one piece. And it won't hurt resale value at all.Also, the one piece bridge isn’t what we are actually discussing. Even though it looks similar it’s not.
On a fender if the saddle is too low where the height adj screws stick up too high or the saddle sits on the bridge plate, which happens sometimes especially on the basses then shimming the neck back will give you the break angle needed. If the bridge is set too high where the saddles are jacked way up then you need to shim the north side of the neck pocket to reduce it. We may be conflating what we are discussing when it comes to the break angle on a fender, because this discussion was really about the Gibson Tuneamatic with a Stop TP.How does shimming the neck change the break angle, when the break angle is from the top of the saddle to the entry point of the tremolo block?
Shimming the neck requires a change in the saddle height, but that minimally impacts the break angle, which is around 50-60 degrees on a Fender. Intonation has more of an impact on the break angle by moving the saddle closer or further from the hole in the bridge plate.
I get it about the saddle height, but the height of the saddle has minimal impact on the break angle, since that is relatively fixed. Moving the saddle back for intonation has a greater impact on the saddle break angle, but in no event is the Fender saddle break angle anywhere near as shallow as even an improperly set up Gibson.On a fender if the saddle is too low where the height adj screws stick up too high or the saddle sits on the bridge plate, which happens sometimes especially on the basses then shimming the neck back will give you the break angle needed. If the bridge is set too high where the saddles are jacked way up then you need to shim the north side of the neck pocket to reduce it. We may be conflating what we are discussing when it comes to the break angle on a fender, because this discussion was really about the Gibson Tuneamatic with a Stop TP.
if you want to really understand how break angle works then take a Strat or Tele and remove the two high strings from under the string tree then retune and play it, then put them back under the string tree and notice how much different it plays or sounds.
Not all of them. The Leo Quan BasAss bridge is certainly one solution to the one piece wrap around Gibson bridge. I like the Wilkinson version better though.
My PRS SE Paul's guitar was virtually perfect out of the box. Fret ends too.They're not. No factory setup on any production guitar is proper. At least none that I've ever seen, and Gibsons have been some of the worst IME.
JMO/YMMV