Buying my first soldering station

[StratoMutt]

Wow, I had no idea that the sponge needs to be wet, when in use. Regarding brass wool, I've spent quite a lot of money so far, so I'll stick to using the sponge for the time being. Thanks for the tip.

The sponge would char without the water. Damp is more like it.

I understand the desire to keep costs in check, but a wet sponge is the wrong way. I used that for years until I tried the brass.

No comparison. If you need to wait until May, you may as well have all the proper equipment.

Please reconsider the brass wool stuff.

 

[StratsoundFan]

Brass

The sponge would char without the water. Damp is more like it.

I understand the desire to keep costs in check, but a wet sponge is the wrong way. I used that for years until I tried the brass.

No comparison. If you need to wait until May, you may as well have all the proper equipment.

Please reconsider the brass wool stuff.

Brass wool is actually cheap. I guess it's worth buying it after all.

 

[StratoMutt]

Brass

Brass wool is actually cheap. I guess it's worth buying it after all.

Yes. I like that type of container as it allows me to safely grab it with one hand and swirl the iron and tip with the other.

Oh - have fun practicing!

 

[Eric_G]

Pot backs need to be heated quickly for a solid joint. A hotter tip is called for here.

OK I'm no physic major, but I think this is where watts of the iron station comes into play. And I think we are saying the same thing...

My understanding is that you'll need a hotter iron if you station can't cope with the amount of heat a pot would suck from the iron's tip and compensate the temp drop to remain above the solder melting point. I run a 75 watt station and it's able to keep the temp of my tip above the solder melting point and transfer the amount of heat needed to the casing for the solder to melt quickly.

Now if your station keeps your iron well above the required temp, let's say you run at 630F like I do, there is a risk that you stay on the pot too long and transfer more heat than needed, which will result in the internal component of the pot to also receive heat and may damage the component.

That's what I meant by "With a hotter iron, you may transfer more heat than needed to your component and if your not fast enough you may find yourself overheating the component and damage it."

Now of course if your station can't cope with the loss of heat at the tip, you will end up heating up the entire pot at let's say 300F which will not be enough to melt the solder but likely enough to damage the internal component of the pot. So it's sort of a two way street... to low is risky and to high is risky.

I'm not sure if I express myself clearly here, but with a good iron station and enough watts to keep the tip at the desire temp, you shouldn't need to crank the temp above what you normally run. Now I can't confirm that 50 watts is enough, but starting lower and testing is really the best way to go here. If you can't get a pot hot enough after 5 secs or so, your iron is not coping with the eat loss.

Like I said, just my experience and understanding, I can't support that opinion with real science

 

[Eric_G]

The one thing you need I do not see is a way to keep the iron tips clean. Forget wet sponges. Brass wool and a container like this are perfect.

Clean and tin the iron tip before each solder joint with that leaded solder. A clean shiny tip is essential. Clean and tin when finished too.


View attachment 633549

Absolutely, brass wool is essential... I use it all the time. Don't forget to clean it, if you solder enough there a point where the brass wool is loaded with old solder drop that keep sticking to your iron... I clean mine probably once every 5 pedal board I do.

The wet sponge is also useful for those little piece of crap that sometimes doesn't stick to the brass wool, however use it only as you put back your iron in the station, never before soldering, the water cool off the tip and doesn't really help.

Another good thing to get is solder braid wick, an essential tool to clean up solder. The pump help for large amount of solder, but the braid wick just take it all off...





Tinning you tip is also an essential tip (no pun intended), before and after using the iron. It will keep your iron tip from oxidizing (I think) and increase the tip life.

Last one tip I would add is, if you're not planning to use your Iron for more than 5 or 10 minutes, turn it off. This will prevent that you forget it and also extend its life. If your station heats up to temp in less than a minute, there no point of letting your iron run for nothing.

 

[StratoMutt]

OK I'm no physic major, but I think this is where watts of the iron station comes into play. And I think we are saying the same thing...

My understanding is that you'll need a hotter iron if you station can't cope with the amount of heat a pot would suck from the iron's tip and compensate the temp drop to remain above the solder melting point. I run a 75 watt station and it's able to keep the temp of my tip above the solder melting point and transfer the amount of heat needed to the casing for the solder to melt quickly.

Now if your station keeps your iron well above the required temp, let's say you run at 630F like I do, there is a risk that you stay on the pot too long and transfer more heat than needed, which will result in the internal component of the pot to also receive heat and may damage the component.

That's what I meant by "With a hotter iron, you may transfer more heat than needed to your component and if your not fast enough you may find yourself overheating the component and damage it."

Now of course if your station can't cope with the loss of heat at the tip, you will end up heating up the entire pot at let's say 300F which will not be enough to melt the solder but likely enough to damage the internal component of the pot. So it's sort of a two way street... to low is risky and to high is risky.

I'm not sure if I express myself clearly here, but with a good iron station and enough watts to keep the tip at the desire temp, you shouldn't need to crank the temp above what you normally run. Now I can't confirm that 50 watts is enough, but starting lower and testing is really the best way to go here. If you can't get a pot hot enough after 5 secs or so, your iron is not coping with the eat loss.

Like I said, just my experience and understanding, I can't support that opinion with real science

I think we are stating the same thing. A hotter tip will solder a pot back joint faster. What cooks a pot is too much time spent heating the pot case.

There is not as much heat needed for a wire to jug joint - where a variable temperature station is handy.

I have made do with two 40 watt standalone irons. I do not solder often. Every time I go price shopping quality stations I need to remind myself how often am I going to use it? I had to fight off the urge again recently.

I like using chisel tips for most guitar and amp work. Spreading the heat out across a 3mm tip makes soldering pot backs faster and easier. Conical tips are best for smaller joints.

These tips can do it all except for PC board work. I have an old 23 watt Weller iron with a conical tip for that.

 

[StratoMutt]

Another good thing to get is solder braid wick, an essential tool to clean up solder. The pump help for large amount of solder, but the braid wick just take it all off...

View attachment 633574



Tinning you tip is also an essential tip (no pun intended), before and after using the iron. It will keep your iron tip from oxidizing (I think) and increase the tip life.

Last one tip I would add is, if you're not planning to use your Iron for more than 5 or 10 minutes, turn it off. This will prevent that you forget it and also extend its life. If your station heats up to temp in less than a minute, there no point of letting your iron run for nothing.

Absolutely! Wick is super useful. Be sure the get braid with rosin in it. Plain copper braid will disappoint for quickly removing solder.

 

[StratsoundFan]

I think we are stating the same thing. A hotter tip will solder a pot back joint faster. What cooks a pot is too much time spent heating the pot case.

There is not as much heat needed for a wire to jug joint - where a variable temperature station is handy.

I have made do with two 40 watt standalone irons. I do not solder often. Every time I go price shopping quality stations I need to remind myself how often am I going to use it? I had to fight off the urge again recently.

I like using chisel tips for most guitar and amp work. Spreading the temp out across a 3mm tip makes soldering pot backs faster and easier. Conical tips are best for smaller joints.

These tips can do it all except for PC board work. I have an old 23 watt Weller iron with a conical tip for that.

View attachment 633588

I bought this set:

 

[StratoMutt]

I bought this set:

View attachment 633592

The one to the left looks like it would do well for a pot back too. Keep them clean and shiny!

 

[GrooVey]

f you're not planning to use your Iron for more than 5 or 10 minutes, turn it off.

I certainly agree with this.

I burned (almost litterally) through a handful of tips in the beginning. I know there are some you tubes out there showing how to recondition a soldering tip. It never worked for me. I found that once the outer coating is toasted, it never works the same. The tip won’t even melt the solder.

I use the damp sponge to cool the tip and keep the tip tinned. Between connections drop some solder on the tip, roll it on the sponge and you have a nicely tinned tip.

I now turn my station down to 2 between connections. Mine only goes from 1-5. I use 3 for lugs and 5 5 for the back of the pot or spring claws.

 

[GrooVey]

Check out this guy. Really good step-by-step video. He has a handful of these vids on you tube.

 

[StratoMutt]

I use the damp sponge to cool the tip and keep the tip tinned. Between connections drop some solder on the tip, roll it on the sponge and you have a nicely tinned tip.

I never saw an advantage in cooling a tip with a sponge. I can apply a bit of fresh leaded solder, then quickly remove excess in the wool. Little or no tip cooling involved.

The tips I use are in better shape over time using the brass versus the damp sponge.

YMMV, etc...

 

[Eric_G]

Absolutely! Wick is super useful. Be sure the get braid with rosin in it. Plain copper braid will disappoint for quickly removing solder.

haha... you made me check my braid roll for rosin !!!! The picture I posted is the exact one I've using, label doesn't say but description of the product on Amazon where I bought it states:

NTE Solder Wick is made from fine copper wire woven together with a no-clean flux formula added to it to increase absorption.

Phewwww, glad I don't have to replace it

TBH, I'm about 1 or 2 feet away from the end of my 10 feet roll, so will need to re-supply soon...

 

[StratoMutt]

haha... you made me check my braid roll for rosin !!!! The picture I posted is the exact one I've using, label doesn't say but description of the product on Amazon where I bought it states:

NTE Solder Wick is made from fine copper wire woven together with a no-clean flux formula added to it to increase absorption.

Phewwww, glad I don't have to replace it

TBH, I'm about 1 or 2 feet away from the end of my 10 feet roll, so will need to re-supply soon...

I have both - with and without. The no rosin at all sucks. I have added liquid flux to the no rosin to make it work.

 

[Eric_G]

Check out this guy. Really good step-by-step video. He has a handful of these vids on you tube.

Well if we're going to post reference video, might as well post one of our own members. I think @Believer7713 has solder a few pots in his life

 

[Eric_G]

I have both - with and without. The no rosin at all sucks. I have added liquid flux to the no rosin to make it work.

This reminds me when I went trough my first roll of solder and grabbed what I thought was a roll of 60/40 rosin core, but turned out to be the roll that was included with my station when I bought it.

100 percent tin, no rosin core... what a nightmare !

It felt like I had never solder before, mess all over my board, big freaking bubble instead of nice shiny cones... took me a while to figure out why !!!

 

[GrooVey]

never saw an advantage in cooling a tip with a sponge.

Could be just my habit from when I was burning tips with every harness. Gives me peace of mind. I’ve been using the same tip now for 2 years.

I’m doing the same thing with the sponge as your doing with the wool.

 

[GrooVey]

I think @Believer7713 has solder a few pots in his life

Yes, but can he speak with an English accent?

 

[Eric_G]

Yes, but can he speak with an English accent?

Why not, that could be a funny video, next time he record one to do so with his best English accent

 

[StratoMutt]

Yes, but can he speak with an English accent?

Why not, that could be a funny video, next time he record one to do so with his best English accent

Sure!

He does not sound very bunny-like...